How do resin and hardener interact
Mondragon [15] also found for a DGEBA epoxy resin that the presence of a small amount of solvent in their case CH 2 Cl 2 at the beginning of the curing reaction, even if they are later lost by evaporation, have a measurable effect on curing kinetics and T g of the resin due to a modification of the network structure.
The decrease in tensile strength and elongation at break may be related to the presence of weakly bonded acetone rich areas of the resin which may act as stress concentration points. This is in qualitative agreement with the work of Dickens [19] who found that higher amount of residual acetone decreased strength and modulus in flexure of a particular thermoset resin, which was attributed in their case to the presence of defects in the specimen, such as porosity originated from acetone evaporation.
SEM images of tensile fractured surfaces are presented in Figure 5. Figure 5a , for the sample which did not use solvent 0. This may be compared to a less extent to the effect of moisture on saturated epoxy specimens, which show a transition to ductile behavior due to moisture-induced plasticization, i.
This could explain some near circular or ellipsoid patterns left on the fractured surface of the Furthermore, no apparent porosity was found in any of the micrographs taken, indicating that the difference in mechanical properties is indeed a consequence of alterations in the characteristics of the resin material. The influence of the presence of residual solvent, namely acetone, on the characteristics of an epoxy resin was studied.
The molecular strucuture of the cured resin has also been affected, as detected by FTIR analyses, and SEM micrographs showed a less brittle-like fracture for the material to which acetone had been added. Thermal degradation has also been affected by the acetone. Abrir menu Brasil.
Abrir menu. Loos Luiz Antonio F. Pezzin Sandro C. Amico About the authors. Acetone; epoxy; curing process; mechanical and physical properties.
Keywords: Acetone, epoxy, curing process, mechanical and physical properties. Introduction The addition of solvents to thermoset resins is a possible route to decrease resin viscosity, allowing a better distribution of fillers including, more recently, carbon nanotubes CNTs []. Methodology A certain amount of acetone 7. Dong, B. View on Springer. Save to Library Save. Create Alert Alert. Share This Paper. Figures from this paper.
Citation Type. Has PDF. Publication Type. More Filters. Abstract The interactions that occur between an amorphous silicon nitride Si3N4 nanofiller and an epoxy matrix are examined, as revealed by rheological changes in a diglycidyl ether of bisphenol-A … Expand.
I am going to make a wedding gift using metal house numbers. I am going to spray paint them and then place them in a frame to be filled with resin. Do you think that I need to seal the numbers before putting in the resin? If so, what would you suggest using to seal them? Dear Katherine I recently had a glass resin finish done on a tray for an art auction at my school I am a teacher. Three weeks later i touched it and found parts are still sticky. I assume that the person who did the job did not mix the resin properly but now need your help!!!!
Is there a way to fix the tray which was worked on for may hours by my class? Regards Gail. I am looking into doing sculpture or a collection of works and I want to see if I can use resin along with coral pieces and shells to create my own kind of reef.
I have no idea of how to use resin or what it actually is and what effects it has on organic materials. I would really appreciate it if you could help my out! Thanks, Heidi. I was casting some gems for a costume and the surface of a few of them are tacky while the rest of them are perfectly fine. What would get rid of the tackyness? Would covering it a clear coat of spraypaint work or would it harm it?
MK, if they are just a little sticky like touching the surface of tape , then yes, a clear coat of an acrylic based spray paint should be fine. I really like the table and am considering either painting the table or etching it.
Do you think I could use the resin as a final coat? If you want to try, I would certainly seal them before using them in resin. Want to use small mold with small cut up dried flowers. I have the different molds already. Can I paint some of the flowers to restore the color prior to using the resin? Katherine, thanks for your feedback. Any other ideas? Thank you. I am making resin pendants and earrings. I seal the images with modpodge and glue to the bezel base leaving them atleast 24 hours to dry before pouring the ice resin.
Can you please advise on potential cause and solution? Thanks in advance. Kim, I would suggest checking your pendants frequently every 15 minutes or so after you pour them to remove those bubbles. As resin cures and subsequently heats up , sometimes bubbles are produced. We just did a coffee table with bottle caps and poured the resin. After drying we noticed some caps were higher than others and not quite covered.
We decided to spot pour to fill in but you can see ridges. Is there a way to get rid of them. Any help would be appreciated. Kim, my suggestion would be to try warming the bezel with a heat gun, then pouring a bit of resin. Make sure all the bubbles are out of that layer before pouring more. Warm again with a heat gun to get any additional bubbles to rise to the surface. In places the resin has soaked in slightly to the board and so bonded nicely, even though it has made the board darker.
Is there something I can coat the fiberboard and wood with to prevent this film? Many thanks for your time and experience. I am making a bathroom vanity using an old buffet. I would like to make a faux marble top with contact paper and epoxy.
Any suggestions to prevent yellowing and a firm set? Kim, I would suggest using the Amazing Clear Cast resin. I did the same thing with an epoxy flood top slab table. I wanted to prevent dust and scratches when I flipped it over to sand the drips. It had cured approx. It went on easy ,stuck well, and removed with no mark after 5 minutes. Denatured alcohol nor Simple Green would remove it.
Since I was going to have to sand it and recoat anyway if wondered if it would evaporate or melt with heat. Back to the propane torch. Heat control is everything. Test it on a test piece first to master the heat control. It took me about minutes to clear a 12 sqft table top. Good luck. Larua, My heat method may not work with your painting due to excessive heat transfer through the coating to the painting below.
A walnut slab with nearly a quarter inch of epoxy can soak up a lot of heat without damage. A thin epoxy coat on canvas or paper not nearly as much. Definitely do a test piece first. You will need to recoat with another layer of resin. I have a couple of necklaces that have resin pieces set in the metal.
They are supposed to be white, but they have yellowed. Is there a way to paint them so that they will be white again and wear well? I thought about trying nail polish. What would you suggest? I have a glass collage on a wooden board with a poured resin finish. I would like to paint a short verse on the lower corner.
Would lettering using acrylic paint adhere to the gloss resin? Hello, I am planning to use an old dresser as a bathroom vanity. My plan was to pour an epoxy glaze on the top flat surface on which the sink and faucet are mounted. When should I drill holes for plumbing connections? Before the epoxy goes on? After the epoxy has cured? Thanks for your input, this is a bathroom remodel project. Hi there, I have an old beautiful monkey pod wooden coffee table from Hawaii that I am looking to refinish.
Whats the best approach to tackling this? Do I fill the cracks in with epoxy resin and then sand it after its cured to blend into the topcoat, then after that step pour on a brand new top coat? Am I missing anything here? Also, can a oil based sanding sealer be used on top of the old topcoat before I begin sanding to help smooth things out and make the sanding in preparation for the new topcoat be easier?
Thanks and take care! Be sure to end with a very fine grit of sandpaper or higher , otherwise, you will see sanding marks when you pour the next layer of resin. I would then put on a new top coat.
I would not use an oil based anything on the resin. Resin can be a little crabby with things like that. I would like to cast some old movie reels in resin to use as a seat on a bar stool in my theater room. Would I be able to drill into the resin to mount onto the stool?
Perhaps two to three coats of it before pouring the resin? My thought is that there bubbles that are being release during the resin curing process. I suspect that while the resin is heating up, it is drawing more bubbles to the surface through the liquitex. Maybe another couple of coats will keep the bubbles sealed in.
It can get very warm.. If the resin sets to quickly can it cause this reaction with the wood. But the resin by itself on the wood.. Is proving to be difficult. Assuming your resin is as close to bubble-free as possible when your pour it, my two thoughts are that either the resin is reacting with something or trapped air is being released later. I am interested in make a beach themed table; sand, seashells and then covering it with resin. Does anyone know the best way to do this or how resin and sand interact.
I was worried about the sand absorbing the resin. I need to make a mold that is very long and rectangular. What product can I use that will leave clean lines and not stick to the resin. Is that true? In this case, I would suggest making a silicone mold. Depends on the kind of resin. I would be more concerned that it would not withstand the heat from sawing. I am looking to make a hanging faux stained glass window for privacy in the window inside my shower.
The window does get a damp, but not soaked, and gets a few hours of sun per day. I am thinking of using plexiglass as the base. Can you suggest the best resin for this project? Will it need to be sealed with something to protect it from dampness? Any advice at all is most welcome! I am planning on doing a craft paper counter top as part of a kitchen remodel. I really want to use epoxy instead of a polyurethane type sealer.
I am concerned about how to address the sides of the back splash and the edges of the counter. Can epoxy be brushed on those edged and then just poured on the flat surface where it will be more vulnerable to wear? An epoxy is going to go on thick and will want to run off the sides. You may have to use a polyurethane sealer on the vertical surfaces, then use an epoxy on the horizontal surface.
Hi i want to use resin on a hair project Im a licensed cometologist and im in a big show i would like to knw more about the proportions to use and what to use to paint it on. I am planning on glazing deer antler slices with easycast epoxy resin. I have a few questions regarding the application. What would I use to glaze just the top? I have seen people seal their objects with easycast using a popsicle stick. I dont want to leave any brush marks or bristles behind. So would the stick be good if I use the resin sparingly?
And another question, the bone of the antler is not very porous but the dried marrow in the middle is very porous.
What can I use to seal it before I apply the resin? I want to avoid the micro bubbles. I carved out the marrow and sanded the inside bone. Will I have any issues with bubbling? Or should I just seal it to be on the safe side? Thanks in advance for your advice!
The antlers were found in the woods. Deer shed them and I find them and use them in my jewelry. Since the bone is porous, I would recommend sealing. Do you have a way to suspend the antlers during this process? Hi, Katherine.
Thanks for replying. I never even thought of that honestly. Do you have any ideas? I just seen your question. I just poured in layers. Let each layer cure for 24 hours. Also, I use Scotch Heavy Duty shipping tape. Please advise! I used a two part epoxy over a laminated image on a piece of ash wood. It looked great for about three weeks and now the image started to bubble up and warp! It was flat and perfect for a while.
Any thing i can do? Thank you so much! Are you rotating the cup while the epoxy is curing? If not, it can pool up in certain areas and thin out in others, which can create lines. Hi Katharine!!! I love your website and your amazing YouTube videos!!!! I am trying to make semisphere dandelion molds , would I use the same technique to finish the underside as on your video for finishing a sphere?
Would that also clear up the leftover flower stem poking out? Thanks again. Thanks so much for your response, I really appreciate your input. What I would do then is use a razor or scalpel blade to cut the stem as close to the resin base as possible. I want to make wood frame necklace with dry flowers. My problem is when I pour resin into frame I firmly pressed frame to stick different kind of tapes it leaks under.
Which tape i should use to avoid it? I would like to pour epoxy resin into a small picture frame so that I can embed some small objects into it. Can I put something under the frame to hold the resin until it hardens? And then remove it? I would like to skip using a mold. Can you suggest something to help me? Thanks for your response. Would it work with wide duck tape?
How about taping a piece of wax paper? Could I overlap duck tape? What happens when you remove the tape? Will it be clear? Duck tape tends to be too sticky for me anyways. I would suggest a good quality, wide masking tape instead. The resin will take up the surface of the tape, so there will be a bit of a frostiness to it. You can either recoat with another layer of resin, sand it down, or use a couple of light coats of our resin gloss sealer spray.
Thank you so much Katherine. I will try the wide masking tape per your suggestion. I would just like to skip the mold stage if possible. I am pouring resin over ceramic tiles to make coasters. After they cured, one of the coasters produced one bubble!
Thank you!!! I would like to create an abstract art piece on canvas. I would like to create my own piece of artwork for my home.
Hi Lara, this product will help you produce the cells and lacing effect you are looking for. I am gluing a photo on glossy photo paper into a locket for a necklace. Do I need to do anything to prep the picture or can I just lay epoxy on top of it to seal the image onto the locket? Is there a certain type of epoxy I should use for this type of job? Sci Adv Mater 3 1 :1— J Chem Phys 3 — J Mater Sci 49 12 — J Mater Sci 48 22 — Google Scholar.
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